Too laboured a pun? Sorry.
Anyway, once the blade has the bevels done, it’s a relatively straightforward matter to pencil in some flats, cut them off, and then round over with a fine rasp.
Once the rounding is done and the shape is what you want, start sanding at 80 grit and progress through 400, again whiskering between grits. The difference from last time is that at any given grit, we’re starting with the flat parts and then sanding the curved areas. This will help to blend everything together into an organic form. In cross-section, it would be a flattened ovoid, rather than rectangular with round corners. It’s a minor difference, but one that is noticeable in the hand.
Dust with a mineral spirits dampened rag, and goop on the finish. All done, and you now have a functional tool that is also quite fetching.
As we left yesterday, the stillborn cutting board was marked up with the spatula pattern, and ready to saw out the basic shapes. Though there is room for four spatulas in the cutting board’s area, they are only 3/8″ thick. Since we used 4/4 (3/4″) stock, that gives us a total of eight small spatulas when we go over to the bandsaw.
Once we take out the bandsaw marks, we need to bevel off the blade. We’re trying to go from 3/8″ down to about 1/8″. I usually use my #4 plane for this; easy on one side because it’s with the grain. On the other, I still use a plane usually, but stop a little short of where I want and finish the rest with a coarse rasp to tame the tearout.
When the primary bevel is done, then we can put in a secondary bevel that will go right to the edge with a fine rasp. Just as a secondary bevel on a English style mortice chisel provides a sturdy (but precise) working edge, this secondary bevel keeps the spatula from being coarse during use, but not so fine as to chip off. It may seem a minor detail, but it has proven to be an important one.